The Southern Star and Celtic Ross Hotel ‘WEST CORK FARMING AWARDS’ SEPTEMBER MONTHLY WINNER: Johnny Lynch, Macroom

Johnny Lynch with some of the buffalo on his farm at Kilnamartyra. (Photos: Andy Gibson)

September monthly award sponsored by

NOT that long ago, passers-by were doing double-takes driving by Johnny Lynch’s farm in Kilnamartyra near Macroom at the sight of grazing buffalo peering over the ditch.

Now, they’ve become a familiar sight on the West Cork landscape, just like their Macroom buffalo mozzarella has become a familiar item on our supermarket shelves.

It’s a truly unique story that’s had its share of obstacles and success and which required huge amounts of determination and courage , things the Lynch’s aren’t
short of.

Johnny started working on his family dairy farm in the Muskerry Gaeltacht in his late teens, and took over the helm in his early 20s. But early on he started seeing red flags, and he felt he had to make changes if he wanted a business to hand over to the next generation.

‘Milk prices started to fall in 2008 and quotas were very restrictive so out of necessity I started to think about diversifying and to see what else we could do,’ the 56-year-old recalls.

At the time, and in partnership with another, Johnny decided that ‘something else’ was buffalo, even if everyone, including Teagasc, told him he was crazy.

‘We thought they might be right, but we went with it!’ he said.

The reasoning was there was always a demand for mozzarella, but because it was being imported, it meant its shelf life was very short. And if it failed, there was always the option to develop the meat market.

So Johnny purchased 31 water buffalo from Italy in 2009, and has the distinction of introducing the first herd of the water buffalo species to Ireland.

‘I still remember hitting the send button for the €52,000 bank transfer to Italy and the two of us looking at each other and wondering if we’d done the right thing,’ said Johnny’s wife Geraldine.

There were no certainties but regardless, they sold their dairy cows in 2009, started making cheese in 2011 and went solo in their enterprise in 2015.

That same year they developed a purpose-built cheese factory after a half a million euro investment, and their first major customer was Aldi.

‘They approached us,’ said Johnny, who said it marked a major turning point for the business, bringing it ‘to a whole new level.’

In 2023, the business invested €1m in a factory extension and fitout to expand production capability, coupled with a €700,000 investment on the various farms, including a €350,000 outlay on their own farm for a new slatted house for the herd which they’ve grown to 850 pedigree river water buffalo.

The breed is most reliable for milk and produce 800,000l of milk a year, making 200 tonnes of cheese.

Among their products are mozzarella, a Greek haloumi style cheese, a feta style, and a ricotta along with several flavours of yogurts, and among their many accolades are a world cheese award.

Johnny and Geraldine Lynch in their farm shop, with some of their huge range of buffalo products.

They employ 25 people between the cheese factory and the various farms, and  their R&D team always has an eye on what their next product might be.

But the couple are honest about how difficult it has been at times over the years.

‘It was a rollercoaster,’ said Johnny. ‘We were very green starting out and there was a lot to learn. I won’t lie, it was stressful. ’

Among the challenges they faced was his bowel cancer diagnosis in 2013

He has recovered, but says that, like many after cancer, ‘you never go back to how you were.’

‘I’ve regular check-ups and you would be fearful in the run-up to them and on edge. You’ll always have health issues but you learn to live with that.’

Kieran, the couple’s youngest son is now on board and the future looks positive. He takes responsibility for managing the farm, milk, nutrition and grass management; between land owned and lease, they have access to 635 acres. The 25 year old studied agriculture in MTU where, not surprisingly, buffalo didn’t feature too strongly on the curriculum.

However, there is, he said, a lot of similarities between buffalo and cows especially from a grass management and production side.

‘As well, I’ve been farming with these animals since I was nine so I know them well. They love their routine and if you’re a half hour late milking they’ll let you know about it! If you’re calm, they’re calm and if not well, they’ll go against you!’

Typically they weigh 750 kilos compared to 650 kilos for an average cow, so it’s important to keep them onside!

‘They’re like puppies’ said Kieran. ‘The more time you spend with them when they’re young, the more playful they’ll be as adults.’

Among the pets are Betsy, and Black Beauty who featured in the infamous TV Aldi ad with Johnny. That was a bit of a ‘pinch me’ moment for the family, who recall how a crew of 47 took over the property for two days, and life-long memories were made.

They calf almost year-round, taking brief breaks at Christmas and in the summer, to ensure the consistency of the milk quality so the texture of the cheese doesn’t change. From starting out with 13 calves in 2011, they will welcome 300 this year. They rear the bulls for meat having established markets themselves.

‘You can’t just take them to the mart in Macroom so we had to develop that side of the business,’ said Geraldine, who delivers burgers and other cuts to businesses all around the locality and as far West as the Beara Peninsula.

Like Johnny she has a strong entrepreneurial spirit, having set up a purpose-built childcare facility on the farm.

With Kieran on board their journey is far from over.

‘It’s great to get to do this as a family and knowing that the next generation is on board makes all the hard work worthwhile,’ said Johnny.

Kiaran Lynch, who’s looking forward to following in his father’s footsteps.

And winning The Southern Star award was ‘super recognition.’

‘It’s fantastic to say we’ve won a world cheese title but to be recognised locally is that extra bit special, and means so much,’ said the couple.

They could have had a quieter life, they say.

‘We could have stayed milking cows, taking them to the mart and had a much easier time of things’.

‘We definitely made the more difficult choice and there’s never a dull moment but we like taking chances!’ said Geraldine

Their top business advice is to do research and to take advice.

‘And be prepared for hard work, an awful lot of it. It has taken us years to build up the business, there’s no overnight success. We started with 30 animals and built up slowly to 850,’ said Johnny, who singled out for special mention Údarás na Gaeltachta for the mentoring and financial support over the years, as well as the great team they have in the factory and on the farms.

‘People said we were crazy, maybe we were, but we took a chance and it paid off, and  we wouldn’t change any of it,’ said Johnny.

Why we support West Cork farming

John Fitzgerald, Bank of Ireland agri development manager.

BANK of Ireland is delighted to sponsor the September West Cork Farming Award, and offer their congratulations to Johnny Lynch and his family on the accolade.

‘Agriculture is a key part of Bank of Ireland’s business, and our commitment to the West Cork agri community has never been stronger’, said a spokesperson.

With over 82,000 farm customers on their books, Bank of Ireland is keenly aware of the range of issues being faced by farmers, including short-term cashflow challenges, managing the environmental impact of their farms, or investing in the future, and Bank of Ireland are there to help.

John Fitzgerald is the agri development manager with Bank of Ireland for Cork, and with over 20 years of experience in the industry, he has built up extensive experience dealing with all kinds of individuals from right across the broad agricultural landscape.

‘At Bank of Ireland, we want to help the agricultural sector to grow and reach its full potential.

‘My role requires a detailed understanding of the opportunities and challenges in this sector and to use this knowledge to put sustainable funding solutions in place for our farmer customers.’

Bank of Ireland has been supporting farm families over the past 240 years. As the oldest and most important indigenous sector, they continue to recognise agriculture’s unique place economically, socially and environmentally in Ireland, and are committed to its future sustainable development and that of the 135,000 farm families and those employed in the sector.

They offer a range of flexible financial solutions tailored specifically to meet the current and future needs of farmers, as well as sector-specific insights and knowledge to support farmers in futureproofing their farm business.

If you would like to suggest someone to be considered for a monthly farming award, please contact us by email on [email protected] or call 028 21200

Monthly award winners could be a farmer, someone working in agri-business, agri-entrepreneurship, a farming organisation or even someone involved in education or research and development.

The awards panel is looking for examples of great work, innovation and overall contribution to West Cork farming and agricultural life.