‘I’D encourage families to start having conversations about succession as soon as possible and for everyone to be open about what they’re expecting.’

That’s according to fifth-generation farmer Kieran Lynch who has just recently taken over running his family’s farm which uniquely comprises a herd of 750 water buffalo.

Kieran (25) is the youngest son of Johnny and Geraldine Lynch who founded Macroom Buffalo cheese in 2015, after purchasing 31 water buffalo from Italy in 2009, and bringing the first herd of the water buffalo species to Ireland.

Johnny diversified from dairy when prices started to fall in 2008 and quotas were very restrictive. 

‘Out of necessity I started to think about diversifying and to see what else we could do,’ the 57-year-old said.

At the time, and in partnership with another, Johnny decided that ‘something else’ was buffalo, even if everyone, including Teagasc, told him he was crazy.

The reasoning was there was always a demand for mozzarella, but because it was being imported, it meant its shelf life was very short. And if it failed, there was always the option to develop the meat market.

Far from failing, the business has thrived and the family are currently developing their relationship with Aldi, who has backed them since 2015. 

Johnny and his wife Geraldine decided this was the right time to implement a succession plan for Kieran who has taken over responsibility for the home farm in Kilnamartrya.

Kieran Lynch at work in the cheese factory

This includes managing the 180 water buffalo and 140 acres on the home block, along with 450 acres that are rented over three blocks around Macroom.

Milking takes place in two blocks: the home farm and an outside rented farm. 

It’s a big work load but not one that phases the graduate of agriculture from MTU. 

‘After college I went to Toowoomba in Australia. Because there’s no Irish there I joined a rugby club to get to know people, but in my second game, just before half time I tore my ACL and needed surgery and ended up coming back home in the Autumn of 2023. I’ve been involved in the farm and business since but we recently got things organised properly between us and it’s an exciting time,’ he said. 

‘I was always keen to get on board and to make my own stamp but until recently we hadn’t looked at the time line properly. My father is now looking after the sale of all the meat and getting more involved with the cheese production side, while I’m looking after the milking, calving, grass management and herd breeding. We’ve over 300 buffalo calves every year, around half of which are bulls. We actually  had twins in April, which only has a probability of 1/1,000! I’ve also taken on my own farm and am renting 100 acres in Carrigadrohid and I do B&B there for 44 of our young stock,’ he said. 

The family make three and a half tonnes of cheese every week, 200 tonnes a year, from their own milk – producing 800,000l of milk a year.

Their  product line includes mozzarella, ricotta, burrata, bocconcini, Cypriot style, and Greek style. More recently they’ve started making natural, vanilla and strawberry flavoured yoghurts. 

‘We set up the plant in 2015 and in 2023, the business invested €1m in a factory extension and fitout to expand production capability. We now employ around 20 now between the farm and the cheese plant,’ said Kieran who can often be found with his sleeves rolled up in the plant after evening milking. 

‘Yesterday’s milk is processed today, and in shops tomorrow in our products,’ said Kieran 

Kieran has been working with the water buffalo since he was nine, so knows them well 

‘They’re very clever – we need locks on every gate as they’re quick learners, if they open it once, they’ll do it again! They’re very gentle too even if they’re stronger than you think,’ he said. 

Kieran has no immediate plans to expand the operations, instead focusing on maintaining quality. 

‘I feel excited for the future of farming and the business. Having that relationship with Aldi gives us confidence and makes it easier to plan for the future – if it wasn’t for them we’d probably still have just 30 animals and wouldn’t be so widely available, but instead we have this great legacy – something that’s been passed on to me, and that hopefully I’ll be passing on to the next generation.’