The most westerly bus journey in Cork skirts the shores of Bantry Bay, linking Allihies on the furthest tip of the Beara Peninsula to the village of Kilcrohane on the Sheep’s Head Peninsula.
BY HELEN RIDDELL
Launched in 2023 by TFI Local Link Cork, since March 2025 there are two separate services on the route, one linking Allihies to Castletownbere and one travelling from Castletownbere to Kilcrohane.
The Southern Star recently took joined the passengers for a West Cork roadtrip, and met with Ann, one of those waiting for the bus to Allihies on a sunny day at the square in Castletownbere.
Ann, from Ardgroom, is using the bus as her car is in for repairs: ‘I don’t use the bus all the time, but it’s a great service and very handy, especially for times like this when I’m without my car.’ The bus pulls in and driver Nelson Tupai has a friendly welcome for everyone boarding.
One of the passengers is Paul from Navan, who is on a week’s walking holiday around the Beara Way.
He has driven to Beara from Navan, but has left his car parked at the B&B he’s staying in for the week and is using the local link bus to drop him to starting points for his walks.
‘I’ve used the bus everyday I’ve been here. On Sunday I caught the bus to Glengarriff and hiked back to Adrigole and then picked up the bus there. Monday I walked to Allihies and caught the bus back.’ Today’s he’s off to Dursey Island; the bus stops right beside the cable car. He can walk the island, and then catch the bus back to Castletownbere.
Nelson Tupai, getting people to where they need to be with a smile! (Photos: Helen Riddell)
The bus driver, Nelson, is from the Philippines but is now living in Allihies. He’s well known to everyone in the area, judging by the welcome salutes from everyone he passes on the road, and greets everyone who gets on the bus by their first name: ‘I like driving this bus, I have very good employers and I’m grateful to the Irish government for giving me the opportunity to work in this beautiful country.’
What’s more, he loves living in Beara too. ‘It’s very peaceful here and the scenery is beautiful.’
Two days later, travelling from Castletownbere to Kilcrohane on the Sheep’s Head peninsula, a journey of just under two hours, we leave the stop with just a few passengers, but by Glengarriff the bus is packed with people heading to Bantry for the weekly Friday market.
Margaret gets on outside Adrigole, and says the bus gives her great freedom.
‘I can head to Bantry for a few hours any day I want now, to go to the shops or meet up with friends.’ Anna, who boards in Glengarriff with a suitcase, is heading back to the city after a week visiting friends in Beara.
‘It’s a fantastic service. I’m getting off in Bantry, and then I can connect with the Bus Eireann service to Cork city.’
One of two Filipino bus drivers serving the Beara peninsula, Josh has been behind the wheel for about a year now.
We arrive in Bantry and the bus circles the bustling square before pulling up to the stop.
There’s a mass exodus with everyone heading off to inspect the various stalls at the market, and just two passengers get on in Bantry for the next leg of the journey, along the Sheep’s Head peninsula.
The route is worth travelling for the scenery alone, driving along the shores of Dunmanus Bay past flower-laden hedgerows of the villages of Durrus, and Ahakista, before coming to a stop at the end of the line in Kilcrohane.
Enjoying a break before the return journey, driver Josh has time for a chat. Also from the Philippines, he now lives in Kilcrohane and has been driving the route for over a year.
‘I enjoy my job. The mornings are very busy, and it will get busier now with tourists arriving.’
Mary Ann who works in The Old Creamery restaurant in Kilcrohane says the bus service has been great for their business. ‘It’s good for tourism, but also for the locals. Sunday lunch is very busy since the bus service started, as people can get the bus, have their meal here and a drink and then get the bus home.’
She’s not the only business owner to benefit from the bus, as it also supports local employment in Allhies. Tadhg O’Sullivan, chair of the Copper Mine Museum, says their staff members are regular users.
Canadian native Sandy, on her way to Bantry for Friday's shopping.
‘We have two Ukrainian nationals working at the museum who don’t have access to their own transport, and they take the bus five days a week to work. It’s a great service for visitors to the area as well, the bus runs to Allihies four time a day, and it’s very reliable and always punctual.’
Back to Kilcroahne, and catching the bus to Bantry is Sandy, who is originally from Canada and now living in the area.
‘I don’t drive, so this bus is a lifeline for me to get around. I can go shopping in Bantry or go to Durrus to meet up with friends.’ She also has high praise for the drivers: ‘They’re so helpful! I left my phone on the bus recently, and the driver collected it and made sure it was returned to me.’
By the time we return to Bantry, a good few shoppers have done the rounds of the stalls and are ready to head home.
For those with heavy shopping, driver Josh helps them with their bags and makes sure everyone is safely seated before moving off.
Back in Castletownbere, there’s already a few waiting at the bus stop for the return trip back. Josh bids farewell to those disembarking, and is ready with a smile for his new passengers.
