We all have our own traditions at Christmas; those little details that make our festivities unique and reconnect us with family and friends alike.

Kate Ryan spoke to some well-known West Cork foodies about what they do to make their celebrations so special every year

Sally Barnes

Woodcock Smokery

Castletownshend

Christmas isn’t Christmas in my house without our wild smoked salmon on brown cake and butter for breakfast with a glass of fizz, and in the pyjamas. The fire is lit and then start preparations for dinner. Often that’s Skeaghanore Duck – always so tender and tasty. Plus, we get the fat to roast the potatoes in. Red cabbage with apple, vinegar, brown sugar, which stews on the stove whilst the rest is cooking. And we have to have sprouts, gravy, and bread sauce too.

The table is laid with the best ware – it was my mum’s, who passed three years ago. She loved Christmas. Linen napkins, the good glasses, candles, dried flowerheads in an arrangement – maybe an aberrant, and totally out-of-season, rose.

There is also traditional Christmas pudding, made by my friend Anthony O'Toole. I heat some spirit in a small pot, pour it over the pudding and ignite it, because it reminds me of Christmas back 'home' in former times. Who doesn't love the blue flame? Brandy butter and cream to drown it in.  If there's any room in tummies after that lot, local cheeses and crackers, home-made relishes and chutneys, with perhaps a glass of port, finish us off. There's always enough left  over for St Stephen's Day; it always tastes better cold, next day. I have also enjoyed a couple of Christmases totally alone! No cooking up storm, just simple food; but always the salmon and fizz, and all day in the nightie. Very relaxing.

Kate Dempsey

Kinsale Mead

Kate Dempsey of the Kinsale Mead Co

It’s not one tradition, taste or smell that defines Christmas for our family, but a patchwork of many small things.

The smell of evergreen branches dangled precariously from pictures and in the front door wreath.

The fire lit by Dad first thing Christmas morning, crackling as we gather in our pyjamas. A cup of tea to open the presents and then the sweet smell of chocolate goodies unwrapped and shared around for the only time of the year where chocolate really is the first meal of the day.

The clatter of cutlery and my favourite Christmas crooners on play, despite the moans from the millenium generation. Whatever the main course: turkey, turbot or cashew nut roast, there are always Mum’s golden roast potatoes; crisp-edged, fluffy inside. Someone will inevitably declare ‘I couldn’t eat another bite’, before finishing off the last two while clearing the plates.

Before dusk falls, a brisk walk to spot the neighbourhood children on their Christmas bikes and people using their ‘Ideal Gifts for Men’ car wash kits to polish their cars and escape the chaos inside. Through lit windows, we see the non-walkers cozied up on sofas with books.

As we open the front door, the spicy, honeyed aroma of mulled mead welcomes us in and warms our rosy cheeks to our icy toes. And homemade spiced Dutch biscuits hanging from the tree.

Caitlin Ruth

Caitlin Ruth Food

Christmas dinner is my favourite meal of the year. It’s a super special time of year, and I start thinking about it months before so the whole house can be covered with food.

Christmas Eve, I gather a small group of friends with me. We share a Mont D’or cheese baked in the oven with white wine, garlic and herbs until melty, served with bread, potatoes, figs and champagne.

I’m already thinking about bringing my turkey. We always must have turkey. I order up the best free-range organic turkey I can find. I remove the legs, debone them and stuff one with regular sausage meat and the other with Italian sausage. I brine the crown in salt, sugar and bay leaves, and roast the bones to make stock for the gravy.

To me, Christmas dinner has to be like one of those ‘Days of Yore’ feasts. There’s usually six for dinner and, aside from the turkey, 10-15 side dishes. Always green beans sauteed with onions, almonds, and a tomato salsa on top; whole pumpkin filled with a cornbread pecan stuffing; and steamed broccoli with baby onions, covered in a cheese sauce and baked in the oven.

Potatoes – obviously; 3 ways, of course: roasted, mashed and gratin; a fresh Brussels Sprout slaw, and homemade cranberry sauce. No starters, but a sherry trifle to finish.