West Cork’s charming, inhabited off-shore islands offer unique traits that each make for a great day out as well as memorable visits: one boasts Ireland’s only cable car (Dursey Island); another has the vantage point of being at the mouth of Europe’s deepest harbour (Bere Island);one has Ireland’s only manned bird observatory as well as the country’s first ever glamping site (Cape Clear) while Whiddy Island boasts being a part of Ireland’s first Blueway Trail.
Not to be forgotten, Heir Island has, by far, the shortest journey across the water from the mainland and has an area famously called Paris.
Sherkin Island
Sherkin has become known as the island of the arts as it offers a Visual Arts Degree Programme and work by the island’s many artists and designers is sold at the Island Crafts Centre in Baltimore. Sherkin is about 5km long by 3km wide and is situated in Roaringwater Bay.
Getting there:
Sherkin is an easily accessible island which is just a ten minute ferry ride from the seaside village of Baltimore.
Things to see and do:
The island boasts the ruins of a 15th century Franciscan Abbey, a vibrant marine life, four secluded sandy beaches, and three way-marked trails which are all family friendly.
Events:
Sherkin offers a warm welcome to visitors year-round but comes to life in July and August when a surge of visitors arrive to soak up the atmosphere of traditional music, art exhibitions, the annual regatta, and the Do Run Run island race which will take place on August 9th this year.
Places to stay:
A number of accommodation options are available including Sherkin North Shore, The Islander’s Rest, The Jolly Roger, and a variety of self-catering holiday rentals available.
Food and drink:
The island’s pub, the Jolly Roger is a short walk from the ferry is a great place to listen to music and get food which is served in the summer months from 1pm to 7pm. The Islanders’ Rest, just a short walk from the harbour, serves food, has rooms to let, and offers great views back towards the mainland.
Getting around:
Walking on Sherkin is easy and pleasant, but there is also a Rural Transport bus to avail of if needed. In the summer months, bicycles can be hired.
For further details visit: www.sherkinisland.ie.
Heir Island
Heir Island (also known as Hare Island or Inis Uí Drisceoil) is about 2.5km long and 1.5km wide and is a great place to visit. It is one of the seven inhabited West Cork islands and is about a four-minute boat trip from the mainland. It is known as a wildflower haven with over 200 species to discover.
Getting there:
Heir Island is a short ferry ride from Cunnamore Pier to the island. For a ferry time table visit www.heirisland.ie
Things to see and do:
Heir Island has a range of activities to offer including theatre, music, sailing, kayaking, yoga retreats and cookery courses. There are walks and sandy beaches which are perfect for a day’s outing. There is a well-regarded art gallery as well as an established sailing school, a retreat centre with regular yoga and meditation events, and several sandy beaches that are safe for swimming.
Events:
Heir Island boasts many cultural events at the Boathouse on the island including performances from the island’s own folk group, and visiting quartets such as the
Magnolia Quartet (July 5th), Barefoot Baroque (July 16th) and Ceoltóirí Chléire (August 1st). The Heir Island Regatta will take place on August 7th.
Places to stay:
There is both B&B and self-catering accommodation available on the island including: Heir Island House; Heir Island Retreat; Kinard, a four-bedroomed cottage for rent; Timmy’s Cottage, a traditional island cottage; and Old Barn, a comfortable refurbished barn.
Food and drink:
Island Cottage offers lunch from June 13th to mid-September on Friday, Saturday and Sunday only. For further information visit www.islandcottage.com. PizzHeiria offers al fresco dining at its finest with views over Roaringwater Bay from the garden patio and are open from Thursday to Monday each week, from 2pm to 8pm. Booking in advance is essential by sending a WhatsApp to Craig on 086-8070715. Heir Island also offers homemade ice-cream by Amm which will be served on one of the many lovely beaches of Heir Island. Contact 089-9653459 to see where Amm will be serving that day or visit @ammsicecream on Instagram for further information.
Getting around:
Heir Island offers quite lanes and beaches and is a walker’s paradise. For further information visit www.heirisland.ie.
Cape Clear
Cape Clear (Oileán Chléire) is Ireland’s southernmost inhabited Gaeltacht island and is situated just three miles from the Fastnet Rock. It is about 5km long by 2.4km wide. Saint Ciarán, the island’s patron saint, allegedly the earliest of Ireland’s four pre-Patrician saints, was born on Cape Clear and Saint Ciarán’s well is one of the first features you encounter on arrival at Trá Chiaráin where the Islanders gather each year on March 5th to celebrate his feast day. The island is also home to Ireland’s only manned bird observatory, which has been maintaining a daily species log since 1959.
Getting there:
Ferries sail year round from Baltimore on a daily basis and sail from Schull from June to August. The eight-mile ferry journey takes about 45 minutes.
Dun an Óir II operates every day of the year except for Christmas Day. The summer service from Schull is on the Dun na Séad II and generally operates two services daily.
Things to see and do:
Cape Clear is busy in the summer months when lots of Irish language students, day-trippers, yacht sailors and birdwatchers, all arrive to the island. An annual storytelling festival is popular and draws a large crowd every year. There is also a Fastnet Rock day trip which also includes the multi-media exhibition at the Cape Clear & Fastnet Rock Heritage Centre. The Cape Clear Bird Observatory (Tigh na nÉan) was founded in 1959 and is a haven for birdwatchers. Angling trips and marine wildlife spotting outings are also available. The Fastnet Experience at Cape Clear Museum is a private museum that contains a wealth of local information. The museum is open daily from June to September and by prior arrangement at www.capeclearmuseum.ie. The Chleire Goat farm, Mara Heritage Farm and Danzig (the lavender adventure) are also worth visiting. Visit their websites in advance for opening times. There are two official walking trails on the island, Cnoicín’s Loop and the Gleann Loop. Cnoicín’s Loop is great for families while the Gleann Loop is a bigger challenge and offers a longer hike.
Events:
Enjoy listening to tales at the annual Cape Clear Storytelling Festival which will be held from September 5th to 7th, for further information see www.capeclearstorytelling.com. Join a session of music at Club Cléire, which is run by Comharchumann Chléire Teo, a local community co-operative and is a popular destination for visiting musicians. Live music is organised most weekends during the summer season and at bank holiday weekends.
Places to stay:
There are several places to stay on Cape Clear including: Fisherman’s Cottage; Tigh Shéain’s self-contained modern one bedroom apartment; Cape Clear Holiday Cottages; Chléire Haven glamping site; Ard na Gaoithe B&B; Tigh Nóiní; Tigh Florri; Éirí na Gréine; Tir na n-Óg self catering group accommodation; Cape Clear Bird Observatory; Cuas an Uisce; and the Cape Clear Hostel. For further details and bookings on any of the above visit www.capeclearisland.ie/accommodation.
Food and drink:
There are several places offering food on Cape Clear including: Club Chléire; Séan Rua’s Restaurant and Pizzeria; An Siopa Beag, the Island’s grocery shop;
Mary’s Chipper Van; Cotter’s Bar; Mara farm shop and café; and Ciarán Danny Mikes (CDMs) Bar.
Getting around:
Cape Clear has an electric bus/taxi service which meets the ferry and is available to take you to your destination. Bus tours are also available by contacting 086-3836759. Alternatively, take a fun tractor tour around the island with Diarmuid and get interesting commentary along the way. Book with Diarmuid via Instagram at @capecleartractortours.
For further information visit www.capeclearisland.ie.
Whiddy Island
Whiddy Island enjoys a superb strategic position in one of the world’s finest deep-water harbours where it nestles between the two peninsula’s of Beara and Sheep’s Head. Whiddy also has an intriguing naval history in that during
World War One, seaplanes from the US navy were based on Whiddy. More recently, the island has served as a Gulf Oil terminal for berthing supertankers. It was here, in 1979, that the French tanker Betelgeuse exploded in what remains the biggest maritime disaster in Irish history. The island is about 5.5km long and about 1.6 km wide.
Getting there:
There are several sailings between Bantry pier and Whiddy each day. The ferry service to Whiddy has been run by Tim O’Leary since 1994 and the trip to the island is a ten minute boat ride from Bantry. Bookings for special trips such as school outings and walking groups can be catered for.
Things to see and do:
Whiddy Island is part of Ireland’s first Blueway trail, the Bantry Blueway, which has three touchpoints with information boards installed on the island. Islander Tim O’Leary offers interesting guided walks around the island outlining the long history of the island which incorporates Vikings, monks and Gaelic rulers. The island was also once a hub for pilchard fishing and for the military operations of British and American forces. For those who wish to do a hike, there is a waymarked trail which is part of the Sheep’s Head Way walking route.
Events:
The West Cork Literary Festival runs a regular week-long workshop on Whiddy as part of its annual July programme, as well as other shorter events. This year there will be a travel writing workshop by marine biologist Helen Scales from July 18th to 21st as well as a talk by Alice Kinsella, Daniel Wade and Patrick Dexter on the Wake of the Whale. In August, Whiddy Island hosts performances as part of the West Cork Fit-Up Theatre Festival and also holds a few family fun day fundraisers on the island.
Places to stay:
The old schoolhouse on Whiddy has been converted into a hostel which includes two family rooms and can accommodate up to 34 people. The ferry is included in the price as well as a self-service continental breakfast. To book contact Tim on 086-8626734 or book on AirBnB.
Food and drink:
Bank House has decent pub grub and pints which are served with a smile by the friendly hosts. The Bank House hosts regular live Sunday music sessions with local musicians in the summer months.
Getting around:
Bikes are available to hire from the Bank House Bar on Whiddy, directly across from the pier, which offers a great way of seeing the island.
For further information visit www.whiddy.ie
Bere Island
Bere Island’s strategic position at the mouth of Europe’s deepest harbour meant that it was an important military base throughout history. The island’s Martello towers date from the Napoleonic wars and several American ships based at the island during World War I met their fate at Pearl Harbour. The island is home to a signal tower and Lonehort, a military fortification dating from 1899. It also houses two six-inch guns, an infantry trench, engine house and various underground structures. In addition, after the Anglo-Irish Treaty of 1921, Bere Island became one of three Irish ports retained by the United Kingdom.
Getting there:
Two car ferry services are operated on a first-come first-served basis. At peak times, there may be a queue, but everyone will be catered for. Murphy’s Ferry leaves from The Pontoon and is a thirty minute journey from the mainland. Bere Island Ferries is in Castletownbere, on the left at the entrance to the town, and is a 15 minute ferry journey.
Things to see and do:
The Beara Way walks begin at both ferry points (The West End and at Rerrin) and are waymarked trails offering stunning views across the water to the Slieve Miskish and Caha mountains. Guided tours exploring the island’s military past and the Lonehort Battery are available which offer a wealth of information. The Bere Island Heritage Centre is worth a visit and details the unique history and lifestyle of Bere Island. The deep waters of the bay means that killer whales, basking sharks and bottle-nosed dolphins are all regular visitors, making Bere Island one of the primary bases in the southwest for diving, sea safaris, deep-sea fishing and water-sports.
Events:
Bere Island is one of the world’s most distinctive parkrun locations and hosts the weekly 5k run every Saturday at 9.30am throughout the year. In addition, walking weekends are held throughout the year which are always well-attended and the Bere Island Heritage Centre features regular themed exhibitions throughout the year. Bere Island will host the West Cork Fit Up Theatre Festival at the Lecture Theatre, Rerrin on July 12th, 19th and 26th and on August 2nd. Mundy will perform live in concert on Saturday August 16th and the Bere Island Arts Festival will be held in September. The Bere Island Military Heritage Festival will be held on June 21st and 22nd. The National Heritage Week will be celebrated with various events in August. Also in August, from Tuesday 5th to Sunday 10th, the island will celebrate the Bere Island Family Festival which will include an adults and children’s biathlon, watersports events and a family fun day.
Places to stay:
Bere Island has an assortment of accommodation ranging from B&B to self-catering and glamping options.
Food and drink:
There are some select venues offering food and drinks on the island including:
O’Sullivans Bar (Dessie’s Bar) located in Rerrin Village (027-75192); The Hotel Bar & Restaurant located in Ballinakilla (027-75018); Lawrence Cove Marina which offers tea, coffee and ice-creams (087-9125930); Bere Island Bakehouse Cafe, Murphy’s Shop, Rerrin (027-75988) and Eoghan’s Coffee Hub on the Ardnakinna Lighthouse Trail (087-6283235). Contact each place to ascertain opening times.
Getting around:
Visitors can explore Bere Island via a network of roads on foot, by bike, or car.
For further information visit www.bereisland.net.
Dursey Island
Dursey Island (Oileán Baoi) is situated at the western tip of the Beara Peninsula and is 6.5km long and 1.5km wide. Historically, the island was made up of three villages: Ballynacallagh, Kilmichael and Tilickafinna. Dursey Island has had a long and interesting history. Monks from Skellig Rock are said to have founded the ancient church of Kilmichael on Dursey, which is now a ruin. The Signal Tower which stands on the westernmost hill has commanding views north to the Skelligs and south to the Mizen peninsula and was built 200 years ago as a line of defence against the French. O’Sullivan Bere’s Dursey castle was sacked by English forces in 1602, and locals were thrown into the sea below.
Getting there:
Getting to Dursey is an experience in itself as it requires taking a trip 250m above the Dursey Sound by Ireland’s only cable car. The cable car is open all year round, weather permitting, and operates back and forth during the allotted opening hours. If the cable car is down for scheduled maintenance, there will be a public service announcement on the Dursey Island website.
Things to see and do:
Highlights on Dursey include walking the island section of the Beara Way and visiting the ruins of O’Sullivan Bere’s castle, a 200-year-old Signal Tower with views stretching to the Skelligs and Mizen Head, and several standing stones.
Dursey Island is a birdwatching haven and seabirds such as Gannets, Manx Shearwaters, Guillemots, Razorbills and Puffins can be seen.
Events:
The West Cork Islands Festival is held each year in June and highlights the lives of modern-day islanders, and the history of the island through the generations.
Places to stay:
There are several places to stay on the island and details of each can be found at the island’s website listed below. Camping is permitted on the island provided that permission has been asked for from one of the local farmers. There is a public water tap on the road in the first village.
Food and drink:
There is no place on the island to get food and it is advised to bring your own with you and to have a picnic on the island. Murphy’s Mobile Catering offers fresh fish and chips on the mainland near the cable car.
Getting around:
Once on the island, visitors can continue walking the island stretch of the Beara Way.
For further information visit www.durseyisland.ie
Garinish Island
Garinish Island (Ilnacullin) is a sub-tropical garden paradise which was planted over 100 years ago when the then-owners Annan and Violet Bryce joined forces with the Edwardian garden designer Harold Peto, to cultivate ornamental plants from all over the world which flourished between the island’s sheltered position and the warm Gulf Stream. Garinish was bequeathed to the Irish people in 1953, and today is managed by the Office of Public Works.
Getting there:
Small ferry boats and 60-seater waterbuses take visitors to Garinish regularly from The Blue Pool in Glengarriff and / or from Glengarriff Pier. The short crossing usually offers sight of the seals in the nearby seal colony and occasional glimpses of the sea eagles.
Things to see and do:
There are numerous things to explore on the island including: visiting the Italian gardens, which are a delight for the senses; exploring Bryce House, the home of the garden’s creators which has been restored to its original character to bring the island’s story to life; visiting the Martello Tower which is an original feature of the island dating to 1805; and the Grecian temple, Casita and walled garden. A visit to Garinish is a gardener’s - and photographer’s – dream.
Notice:
It is important to note the that the ferry fee does not include the entrance fee onto the island and a separate charge will apply. There is limited access for visitors with disabilities.
Food and drink:
The Garinish Café offers a range of light lunches such as soup and sandwiches as well as a variety of snacks, treats and warm beverages. Visit their Facebook page for further details.
For further information visit: www.heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/ilnacullin-garinish-island
